For this week's progress report, I've created a step-by-step photo essay showing how I transfer the trackplan from paper to full size on the roadbed.
After developing the trackplan in XTRKCAD, I printed it out in 1:1 scale using a plotter printer on long rolls of paper to avoid having to stitch it together over multiple sheets. Using a dedicated CAD/CAM program ensures that everything will fit correctly and allows you to better visualize relationships between objects, including roads and structures. By: James McNab
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The printed plan is then cut along benchwork lines and secured to the foam roadbed at "strategic" points. I'm using roofing nails to hold the paper in place. By: James McNab
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Once secured, the track centerline is punched through to the roadbed. Any pointed object will work, such as a awl or an ice pick. I'm using another roofing nail since I had them on hand. By: James McNab
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For tangent track you can get by with a hole every few inches or so, but for curves, easements and turnouts I lay out a near continuous line of punches. The more you do the more accurate the next step. By: James McNab
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Now it's simply a matter of connecting the dots. The near continuous punches for curves make for hyper-accurate marks on the roadbed. It's also easy to mark where the track transitions from tangent to easement to fixed radius points. By: James McNab
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For tangent lines, a straight-edge makes the process even quicker. By: James McNab
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Using this method it's even easy to transfer roads, structures and other elements to the roadbed to ensure accuracy. By: James McNab
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After developing the trackplan in XTRKCAD, I printed it out in 1:1 scale using a plotter printer on long rolls of paper to avoid having to stitch it together over multiple sheets. Using a dedicated CAD/CAM program ensures that everything will fit correctly and allows you to better visualize relationships between objects, including roads and structures.
The printed plan is then cut along benchwork lines and secured to the foam roadbed at "strategic" points. I'm using roofing nails to hold the paper in place.
Once secured, the track centerline is punched through to the roadbed. Any pointed object will work, such as a awl or an ice pick. I'm using another roofing nail since I had them on hand.
For tangent track you can get by with a hole every few inches or so, but for curves, easements and turnouts I lay out a near continuous line of punches. The more you do the more accurate the next step.
Now it's simply a matter of connecting the dots. The near continuous punches for curves make for hyper-accurate marks on the roadbed. It's also easy to mark where the track transitions from tangent to easement to fixed radius points.
For tangent lines, a straight-edge makes the process even quicker.
Using this method it's even easy to transfer roads, structures and other elements to the roadbed to ensure accuracy.